George Mallory

George Herbert Leigh Mallory (June 18 1886 – last seen June 8 1924) was a British mountaineer.

Climbing history

In 1904, Mallory and a friend attempted to climb Mont Vélon in the Alps but turned back shortly before the summit due to altitude sickness. In 1911, Mallory climbed Mont Blanc.

Related Topics:
1904 - Mont Vélon - Alps - Altitude sickness - 1911 - Mont Blanc

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By 1913 he was at the peak of his rock-climbing powers and on Pillar Rock in the English Lake District ascended, with no aid or assistance, what is now known as "Mallory's Route" – currently graded Hard Very Severe 5a (American grading 5.9). It is likely to have been the hardest route in Britain for many years.

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In 1921 while on a reconnaissance mission exploring routes up to the North Col of Mount Everest, he climbed several lower peaks near Everest to gain an understanding of the region's geography.

Related Topics:
1921 - North Col - Mount Everest

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In 1922, while Mallory was leading a group of climbers down from the North Col of Everest in waist high snow, an avalanche swept over the group, killing seven Sherpas.

Related Topics:
1922 - Avalanche - Sherpa

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On June 8, 1924 George Mallory and Andrew Irvine attempted to climb to the top of Mount Everest via the North Col route. Keen-sighted expedition colleague Noel Odell reported seeing them at 12.50 p.m. ascending one of the major "steps" on the ridge and "going strongly for the top" but no evidence thus far has proved conclusively that they reached the summit. They never returned to high camp and died somewhere high on the mountain.

Related Topics:
June 8 - 1924 - Andrew Irvine - Mount Everest

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In 1995, Mallory's grandson, George Mallory II, reached the summit of Everest.

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