Fez (clothing)

The fez is a conical hat popularized in Turkey in the 19th century. Its use has subsequently become less widespread.

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During the reign of Turkey's Sultan Mahmud Khan II (1808-39), European code of dress gradually replaced the traditional robes worn by members of the Ottoman court. The change in costume was soon emulated by the public and senior civil servants, followed by the members of the ruling intelligentsia and the emancipated classes throughout the Turkish Empire. As European dress gradually gained appeal, top hats and bowlers with their great brims, and the French beret, never stood a chance. They did not conform with the customs and religions of the east. In their stead the Sultan issued a firman (royal decree) that the checheya headgear in its modified form would become part of the formal attire irrespective of his subjects' religious sects or milets.

Related Topics:
Sultan Mahmud Khan II - Ottoman - Turkish Empire - Top hats - Bowlers - Beret - Checheya

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The checheya had many names and shapes. In Istanbul it was called 'fez' or 'phecy' while the modern Egyptian version was called 'tarboosh' (pronounced tar-boosh) a derivative from the Persian words 'sar' meaning head and 'poosh' meaning cover. It was basically a brimless, cone-shaped, flat-topped hat made of felt. Originating in Fez, Morocco, the earliest variety was in the form of a bonnet with a long turban wound around it which could be white, red or black. When it was adopted in Istanbul the bonnet was modified. At first it was rounded, then, some time later, lengthened and subsequently shortened. At some point the turban was eliminated and the color of the checheya stuck to red. The Fez gets it distinctive red hue from a dye collected from the bright red berries of the Turkish kizziljiek (C.mascula), or redwood berries - a cousin to the common American Boxwood (Cornus florida).

Related Topics:
Istanbul - Egyptian - Persian - Felt - Fez, Morocco - Turban - Turkish

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In India the Fez was known as the Roomi Topi. It was a symbol of Islamic identity and showed the Indian Muslims support for the Khilafat, headed by the Ottoman Emperor. Later, it became associated with the Muslim League, the political party which eventually created the country of Pakistan. The late veteran Pakistani politician Nawabzada Nasrullah Khan was one of the few people in Pakistan who wore the Fez until his death in 2003.

Related Topics:
Islamic - Khilafat - Muslim League - Pakistan

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In the Western world, the fez is frequently associated with the Shriners, and British comic Tommy Cooper.

Related Topics:
Shriners - Tommy Cooper

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