Anatoli Boukreev

Anatoli Nikoliavich Boukreev (January 16, 1958 - December 25, 1997) was a Russian climber who made seven ascents of 8,000 metre peaks without supplemental oxygen. Boukrev was relatively unknown, though well accomplished, in the international climbing community until the 1996 spring climbing season on Mount Everest, where eight people died in one of the biggest tragedies in the climbing history of Everest, an event chronicled by Jon Krakauer in a best-selling book.

Climbing accomplishments

The major highlights of Boukreev's climbing career are as follows:

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

• 1997
• July 14 Gasherbrum IV (8,035m)
• July 7 Broad Peak (8,047m) - solo ascent
• May 23 Lhotse (8,501m)
• April 23 Mount Everest (8,850m)
• 1996
• October 9 N summit of Shishapangma (8,008m)
• September 25 Cho Oyu (8,201 m)
• May 17 Lhotse - solo ascent, speed record
• May 10 Mount Everest - South Col route
• 1995
• December 8 Manaslu (8,156m)
• October 8 Dhaulagiri (8,176m) - fastest ascent record (17h 15m)
• June 30 Peak Abai (4,010m) - guide for President of Kazakhstan
• May 17 Mount Everest - North Ridge route
• 1994
• May 15 Makalu (8,476m)
• April 29 Makalu II (8,460m)
• 1993
• July 1 K2 (8,611m)
• May 14 Mount McKinley (6,193m)
• 1991
• October 7 Mt. Everest - South Col route
• May 10 Dhaulagiri - new route on the west wall
• 1990
• February Peak Pobeda (7,400m) - first winter ascent
• May Mt. McKinley - West Rib route
• April Mt. McKinley - Cassin Ridge route
• 1989
• April 30 Kanchenjunga - first traverse of the four 8,000m summits of the massif
• April 15 Kanchenjunga (8,556m) - new route
• 1987
• Lenin Peak (7,137m)